Rediscovering Nadia

A careful study of the social and political history should educate anyone of the historical importance of Nadia region in West Bengal. For example - the Battle of Plassey, resulting in the defeat of Nawab Siraj Ud Daula and advent of the Company Raj – started right in this region. The defeat of Nawab was facilitated by a disgruntled bunch of local kings and collaborators. Maharaja Krishna Chandra Roy was the most resourceful among them. Naturally Krishnanagar, named after him, earned a dubious reputation from this history.

Driven by kind of penchant for our own past, we embarked on hour 2-hr long train journey from Kolkata to rediscover Nadia. At Krishnanagar rail station the ubiquitous pedal rickshaws appeared to be most convenient option for our leisurely exploration of this long forgotten town.

Our first halt obviously was the King’s Palace or Raj Bari, which is still inhabited by the descendants of Raja Krishna Chandra Roy. One part the palace is in a sorry state, but the other side is well-maintained. The front gate, Charminar is a good example of Indo-Muslim architecture. It is a fine, yet neglected, piece of architecture. Yet the renovated main gate just behind still dazzles. The star attraction is a set of old canons. Legend has it they were gifted by Lord Clive to Krishna Chandra. Inside the palace is the Durga dalan, enriched with interesting frescos. While many religious events are organised here with great fanfare, it’s the unique Barodol festival which is widely known all over the state. The festival commemorates Lord Krishna in swings in twelve different manifestations and includes huge village fair held in front of the palace.

The catholic church of Krishnanagar is a big draw. Splendid Roman architecture of this 130-year-old church has made it one of the best in eastern India There is a tower and a silver dome side by side. Inside are 22 rare oil paintings of Jesus. The Original Italian interior and soft natural lighting are lovely. One should also visit the more much more austere Protestant church nearby which is even older.

Brahma Mandir, established in 1847 by Debendranath Tagore, is another attraction of the town. There are quite a few heritage buildings, Indo-European architecture of which has certain regality about them. Krishnanagar College, dating back to 1846, is worth a visit, as is the District Public Library, built a decade later. There are also some interesting private buildings of elite gentries of the British era, one of which became my favourite.  It is now converted in to Krishnanagar Collegiate School, one of the flag bearers of Bengal’s high education standard since the time of independence.

Krishnagar is an important centre for culture and literature. It boasts of many famous Bengali literary figures. Even today there is a vibrant culture of literary exchange among small groups of writers and poets, and there is a strong tradition of theater. All this would look significant when you understand that it is after all a small district town. The city’s progressiveness will also be understood when we found out that its Government run Diploma Engineering college has facilities (including hard court for tennis) which would put many private run Degree Engineering colleges to shame.

In fact, this distinctiveness amidst the ordinary has kept the town active and interesting. Take for example public religious festivals. Maharaja Krishna Chandra introduced Kali (instead of Lakshmi) puja on Diwali night in Bengal. And, today while for Bengalis Durga Puja is most important religious festival, in Krishnanagr it is Jagadhatri Puja, exactly 30 days afterwards (where the idol is Durga with the lion and Ashura, but without her sons and daughters). Take for example sweets; while rest of the Bengal celebrate Rasagulla and Sandesh, Krishnanagar has its heavenly Sarbhaja and Sarpuria, made using an intricate and exacting process by local Moiras, uninterrupted since last 150 years.

A trip to Krishnanagar is not complete without a pause at the shops-cum-studios of famous clay sculptors. The area where most of these masters stay is Ghurni Putulpatty. These artists produce images of Hindu gods and goddesses for traditional worship throughout the year, as well as clay models of human figures and real life objects. It is said that initially it was Raja Krishna Chandra who settled a few families of talented clay artists in the area. They were supposed to make clay models of the natives which the Britishers used to take back to their country as a memento. One look at the clay dolls and we are amazed at the reality with which the artist has displayed the character of the model. Indeed, the clay models / figurines crafted here are collectors’ items.

If you haven’t seen enough yet and have time to spare, then visit Shiv Niwas, about 20 km from the town, which was the new capital of the Nadia royal family. Three massive temples built between 1754 and 1762 are a magnificent throwback to those times.

Even more interesting and historically significant is Ballal Dhipi, located about 25 K.M. from Krishnanagar. The excavation work in 1980s revealed a unique structural complex covering nearly 13,000 Sq. meters, centering around a mound (Dhipi) having a height of 9 metres. This complex identifies itself with the Vikramsila Vihar. Experts say that this side of Stupa (Vihar) of eighth / ninth century was perhaps a seat of learning and pilgrimage up to the eleventh century.

Visits to nearby towns are equally rewarding. While Krishnagar situated on the left bank of Jalangi River, just on the opposite bank is Nabadwip, which was a great seat of learning for Sanskrit languages and religious texts and as well as the birthplace of Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, who spread the message of love as the driving force of the new Vaishnavite sect.

Similarly Shantipur, located 18 km away on the opposite side, had been another seat of Sanskrit learning and literature, Vedic texts and scriptures since ninth century. The Topkhana Mosque was built during the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The Shayam Chand Temple built in traditional Aatchala style, the Jaleswar Temple with its exquisite terracotta designs and the Adwaita Prabhu Temple are the noteworthy temples of Shantipur. The weavers of Shantipur have made themselves famous throughout India by their excellence in making Bengali Handloom Saree.

Nadia was a thriving bastion of native people and their culture even during the Mughal rule and today it has a certain distinctive charm. A visit to Krishnanagar will help turning back the pages of history books for some and the opening up of a whole new world for others.